Observations on Peru Trip (Most Serious, Some Lighthearted)

 

George and Diane Conneman

 

1.             Peru is a land of contrasts. (We always say that about a country!)  Again it is poverty vs. wealth.  The shacks on the hillsides around Lima and Cuzco are over shadowed by the amazing Inca stonework.

 

2.             Peru is the third largest country in South America - 24 million people with 8 million located in the capital, Lima.

a.     Languages: Spanish, Quechau

b.    Religion: 80% to 90% Roman Catholic

c.     Monetary unit: SOL – 3.4 SOLAS to $1 US

d.    24 Departments (States)

e.     Mining main industry (copper, silver, gold, lead).

 

3.             Geographic regions include the Pacific coastal plain, Andes mountains, eastern slope valley of the Andes, and the tropical Amazon River Basin. The climate is marked by wet and dry seasons rather than temperature changes.  The Andian year-round avg. temperature is 68 degrees.

 

4.             Location of people: ½ Pacific Coast (wealth in cosmopolitan coastal cities), ½ Andes (subsistence agriculture and poverty).

 

5.             Ethic make-up of people: ½ Native American, 1/3 Mestizo (Native and European mix ancestry), 1/10 European, 1/14 African and Asian minorities.

 

6.             Comparative Statistics:

 

Item

 

Peru

 

Congo

 

U.S.

 

 

 

 

Life expectancy

 

 

 

                     Men

        68

        47

        73

                    Women

        73

        52

        80

 

 

 

 

% of population (age)

 

 

 

                     Less than 15

        35

        42

        22

                     65 and over

          5

          3

        13

 

 

 

 

Per Capita Gross Domestic

   Product

$ 4,400

  $  400

$ 30,200

 

 

 

 

Literacy (%)

     89%

     77%

     97%

 

 

7.             Lima was established in 1535 by Pizarro on the Rio Rimac (river).  It is in the coastal desert region; not a very nice city – hot and humid January to March, cooled the rest of year by fog from ocean known as La Garua. The Miraflora neighborhood is an exclusive residential district in Lima.

 

8.             The city of Cuzco (population 300,000) is at an elevation of 10,909 ft.; considered by the Incas as the Sacred City of the Sun (the source of all life, the “belly button” of the world.)

 

9.             Security is necessary in Peru particularly in the big cities (Lima and Cuzco).  Security guards wear different colored uniforms:  national police, green;

local police, blue; and private security, brown.

 

10.          The car horn is used as a means of communication in the cities!!  (particularly Cuzco)

 

11.          Political History: The Inca civilization and its demise by the Spanish invaders is fascinating.  How could 150 Spaniard conquistadors under Francisco Pizarro defeat the Incas? (Probably deception as well as horses and cannons.)

a.                      The Spanish replaced Pacha Mama with the Virgin Mary and erected crosses on the hillsides.

b.                      They destroyed many structures the Incas had built or built on top of the Inca wall after destroying the top of building.  They added colonial balconies and doorways.

c.                      The Spanish killed the Inca rulers including Atahualpa, who were the knowledge holders.

 

12.          Jose de San martin of Argentina, and Simon Bolivar of Venezuela liberated Peru from Spanish control in the 1820’s.  Recent Peruan history has been a dramatic alteration between democratic and dictatorial governments; including the Shining Path (1990’s), President Alberto Fujimori (1990and now in exile in Japan), and current President Alejandro Toledo (2001)

 

13.          The Inca Empire, a civilization in the Andes from Argentina to Columbia, lasted from roughly 1400’s to 1532 AD , was 2200 miles long, 320 miles wide (Pasto, Columbia to Rio Maule, Chile); comparable to the Roman Empire

 

14.          The capital of the Inca Empire was Cuzco.

 

15.          The Incas build on the cultures and absorbed the people that preceded them: Chavin, Mochica, Chimu, Tiahuanaco, Pucara, Paraas, and Nazco (from 1200 BC to 2500 BC).   They had a knack for assimilating the best features and knowledge of the people they conquered – all though an oral communication system.  They took ideas and improved on them (plagiarism?)

 

16.          The Incas were astronomers and engineers.  To maintain order, they provide food and clothing to their subjects.  They built precisely cut stone temples and terraces without mortar; Spanish buildings used mortar.  Their Bronze Age technology did not include the aid of the wheel or steel.  We don’t know how they cut their stone!

 

17.          The Inca credo was: Don’t steal, don’t be lazy, don’t lie

 

18.          Inca rituals featured the threes (3):

 

a.              3 coca leaves

 

b.             condor, puma, snake

 

c.              sun, earth, water

 

d.             Inca King, royalty, common people

 

19.          Machu Picchu – the “lost city of the Incas” (8040 ft. elevation).  It was never really lost!!

 

a.              Discovered by Hiram Brigham (a Yalie from Connecticut)  in 1911; it was overgrown.

b.             No road to MP; access by train, hiking, helicopter.  The train ride is through the Urubamba River gorge.

c.              One of the seven wonders of the world?

d.             The three mountains were aligned

e.              Incas did not have furniture

 

20.          Inca Fortress of Ollantaytambo

a.     Site of grain storage

b.    Terraces

 

21.          Sacred valley of the Incas (Rio Urubamba)

Beautiful agricultural land

 

22.          Chinchero (12000 feet)

Quechua artisans weaving workshop using backstrap looms and  drop spindles.  Alpaca wool has a longer fiber than sheep wool.

 

23.          Incan Temple of the Sacred Waters (Spring of Tambo Machay in Cuzco, the Incan Sun Temple, walls with 700 sheets of gold

 

24.          Sacsayhauman Fortress (pronounced sexy woman)

 

25.          Agriculture

 

a.              Agricultural terraces in Pisca as other places were built above and extended the fertile valleys.  Followed the contours of the mountains.

 

b.             Vicuma is the gold of the Andes.  Baby Alpaca is a fine fur (shear every 3 years.)

 

c.              Peas, beans (fava and lima), corn, cane, vegetables, turnips, lupines for seeds, wheat, forage

 

d.             Chickens, ducks and hogs are “free-range.”

 

e.              Barley fed to livestock

 

f.              Cows, bulls, sheep, goats, donkeys are frequently tethered.

 

g.             A few tractors, but generally rely on human labor

 

h.             Quechaa Indians has culture unchanged from days of the Incas (cultivating potatoes, herding llamas)

 

i.               Corn planted in September, matures in 5-6 mo; rain comes when one foot high.  Corn planting season is September to November; harvest April to May

 

j.               Adobe brick: red clay, sand, straw (unbaked, sun-dried)

 

k.             Land reform in the 1990’s  in Peru produced interesting results.  Peru went from an exporter of agricultural commodities to being unable to feed its population without importing food.  Initially the peasants were unable to farm effectively the large haciendas that were divided into small parcels of land by the land reform.  However, by 2001, agricultural exports were beginning again.

 

 

26.          Religion

 

a.              Catholicism the dominant religion – 80 to 90%

 

b.             Healing ceremony from Incas still practiced. Offerings consisted of Ritz Cracker, many colored and chocolate candies, dried figs, corn, beans, raisins, jungle seeds, llama fat, soybeans, peanuts, sugar, rice, grains, coca seed, anise, confetti, snail shells, book of silver and gold, incense, alphabet noodles, etc.  George always said, “Candy aided healing”

 

c.              Spanish tried to convert the Pacha Mama (symbol of land/mountains) into the Virgin Mary.

 

d.             Near Cuzco: dress the cross; May 3 is Day of the Cross, with a candle light procession to the mountain top

 

e.              Elaborate Cathedrals; gold altars

 

f.              Spanish built on the Inca “three’s” to convert Inca minds to Catholicism. 

 

g.             Other religions are now gaining because they work in the community; Catholics stay in their churches.

 

27.          Reflections on the trip

 

a.              Some philosophies expressed by tour members:

“I don’t go shopping.  I just buy things”

“Any money spent on vacation doesn’t count”

 

b.             Many people in Peru come from the countryside to Lima for a better life; few find a better life, because they lack skills for urban jobs.

 

c.              Cuzco: 60% of population “employed” in the tourist industry.

 

d.             In Peru, you vote or you are fined!!  You can’t get a driver’s license if you have unpaid voting fines.

 

e.              Gasoline is 7.19 soles per imperial gallon (4 liters) or in US $@2.00.

 

f.              Chifa is a chinese restaurant

 

g.             The Southern Cross, a star formation in the Southern hemisphere.  They look for it like we look for the Big Dipper.

 

h.             Education system: Kindergarten, 6 years primary, High School, University like the US.

 

i.               Earthquakes have had a big impact on Peru.  Lima was hit in 1746 and 1974.  In Cuzco, the 1534 quake hit Inca buildings; 1650 destroyed Spanish church completely; 1950 damaged the church and the square.

 

j.               The local Inca Kola tastes like bubble gum.  Coke also available but not as invasive as in some other countries.

 

k.             Did Yale University receive the 26 boxes of gold that were shipped from Machu Picchu to the Peabody Museum?  A female gold bracelet found at the site is supposedly in the museum but seldom shown. 

 

l.               Energy comes from the mind – not touching stones with hands.

 

m.           Peruvians make beer from corn called maize beer.

 

n.             Everybody in rural areas has a dog for protection

 

o.             To Inca, gold was religion, take to the temple; Spanish considered gold as power, money.

 

p.             Environmental Challenges: There are no controls on activities such as dredging the Urubamba for sand and causing erosion.

 

q.             They raise and eat guinea pigs in Peru.  In George’s opinion it will never replace the hamburger!